(source: https://www.the-star.co.ke/news/infographics/2025-02-24-top-10-mitumba-import-sources)
‘According to a recent report by the Observatory of Economic Complexity, Kenya recorded an average annual import bill of $203 million (26.3 billion shillings) for second-hand clothing in 2022, the highest in Africa.
Economy
It was followed by Ghana, with US$165.4 million (21.4 billion shillings), Tanzania with US$150 million (19.4 billion shillings), Angola with US$120 million (15.5 billion shillings), Nigeria with US$95 million (12.3 billion shillings) and Cameroon with US$94 million (12.2 billion shillings).
China is the main source of ‘mitumba’ imports from Kenya, according to the United Nations, followed by Pakistan, Canada, the United Kingdom, the USA, Poland, the United Arab Emirates, Germany and India, with the Republic of Korea rounding off the top 10.
In 2016, the presidents of Burundi, Kenya, Rwanda, Tanzania and Uganda decided to ban the import of ‘mitumba’ from 2019 onwards, with the aim of developing their domestic industries.”
This news highlights a very important aspect of the global market for second-hand clothing (mitumba) and helps us understand why countries such as Ghana and Kenya face so many challenges relating to textile waste.
What does each part mean?
1. Kenya imported $203 million worth of second-hand clothing in 2022
“Kenya had an average annual expenditure on imports of $203 million…”
This means that, in 2022, Kenya purchased around $203 million (approximately 26.3 billion Kenyan shillings) worth of second-hand clothing from other countries.
It is the largest importer of second-hand clothing in Africa.
Other countries follow:
- 🇰🇪 Kenya – $203 million
- 🇬🇭 Ghana – $165.4 million
- 🇹🇿 Tanzania – $150 million
- 🇦🇴 Angola – $120 million
- 🇳🇬 Nigeria – $95 million
- 🇨🇲 Cameroon – $94 million
This shows that there is a huge international trade in second-hand clothing to Africa.
2. What is ‘Mitumba’?
‘Mitumba’ is the term used in East Africa (particularly in Kenya and Tanzania) to refer to:
- second-hand clothing
- used clothing
- clothing from donations or surplus stock
Much of this clothing arrives in compressed bales.
Traders buy the bales without knowing exactly what they contain.
3. Where do these clothes come from?
According to the report:
- China
- Pakistan
- Canada
- the United Kingdom
- the United States
- Poland
- the United Arab Emirates
- Germany
- India
- South Korea
This may come as a surprise, as second-hand clothes are usually associated only with Europe or the US.
In reality, many of these countries act as:
- collection centres,
- sorting centres,
- re-export hubs,
- or countries producing textile surpluses.
China ranks first because it also exports large quantities of surplus from its own textile industry and acts as a redistribution hub.
4. Why do African countries buy so much second-hand clothing?
There are several reasons:
It is very cheap
A second-hand item can cost the importer as little as a few cents.
It is then resold in local markets.
Many people cannot afford to buy new clothes
In many African countries, second-hand clothing is the most affordable option.
There is huge demand
Entire markets thrive on this trade.
Thousands of families depend on it for their livelihoods.
5. But where is the problem?
Here is the most important part.
Not all imported clothing can be sold.
Studies show that a significant proportion arrives:
- torn;
- stained;
- overly worn;
- unsuitable for the climate;
- with no commercial value whatsoever.
These clothes immediately become waste.
This is exactly what happens in places such as:
- Kantamanto Market (Accra, Ghana)
- Dandora (Kenya)
The waste ends up:
- in rubbish dumps,
- rivers,
- beaches,
- or is burnt.
6. Why did they want to ban the imports?
In 2016, the presidents of:
- Burundi
- Kenya
- Rwanda
- Tanzania
- Uganda
decided that they wanted to ban the import of mitumba from 2019.
The aim was to develop the local textile industry.
The idea was simple:
Instead of buying second-hand clothing from abroad,
➡ produce local clothing;
➡ create jobs;
➡ strengthen domestic factories;
➡ reduce dependence on imports.
7. Why did this ban ultimately fail to go ahead in full?
Because there were several obstacles:
International pressure
The United States strongly opposed the measure, as it exports large quantities of second-hand clothing to these markets.
Economic impact
Thousands of traders earn a living from selling ‘mitumba’.
An immediate ban could destroy many small businesses.
The local industry was not yet ready
Domestic factories were unable to produce enough clothing, or at competitive prices, to quickly replace imports.
What does this news mean for IAW?
This information reinforces the importance of I AM WORLD’s work.
IAW’s focus is not on preventing second-hand clothing from being reused, but on intervening in the fraction that no longer has commercial value. When clothing reaches the end of its life cycle and becomes waste, it can be diverted from landfill and the environment to be transformed into new materials, such as SOMA filling, giving rise to eco-friendly home décor and sustainable furniture.
This news item also highlights an important distinction:
- Mitumba = second-hand clothing intended for resale (it still has potential for reuse).
- Textile waste = clothing that can no longer be worn or sold.
It is precisely within this second category that projects such as IAW can generate the greatest environmental, economic and social impact, integrating these materials into a true circular economy.
